Dirt track racing is art.
Now I’m not saying to cut off your ear while squaring your rear end as part of your expression of creativity.
Or, am I suggesting you slip on some ballet shoes and dance around the shop in a tutu.
What I am saying is that racing like art can be, and probably should be, creative. Work on your racing like an artist works with brushes and paint.
It’s a different mind set than a technician.
A technician executes a plan, finishes the required job and goes home.
An artist lives the project. They look at it at different angles. Explore different ideas. Build and create something uniquely their own.
Yes … dirt track racing should be art.
Well, let’s get out of the coom-by-ah stratosphere and back down to earth and something more concrete and tangible.
Let’s continue our discussion on where we are and where we should be headed to make our cars faster.
Last article / newsletter we talked about the importance of dropping the right front to get the car back onto the right rear as the car jacked up with the left.
Lets move to the right rear suspension.
In my opinion, the right rear probably has the least amount of problems, but is the most important corner on the car.
I was at a seminar one time where the owner of Pro Shocks claimed that most of your traction was derived from side bite on the right rear tire.
I believe the right rear is so important because it really needs to do two completely independent jobs equally well.
It needs to provide side bite and forward traction. I consider these separate because they each require the tire being stretched in two different directions.
Side bite requires the tire to be stretched side ways or at a particular slip angle and forward traction requires the tire to be stretched front to back. Somewhere in the middle is the marriage of perfect traction.
This is kind of why I claimed if you could ever run your car a little looser, you would be better off; more tire left for forward traction because you use less for side bite. There always seems to be a give and take in racing.
Now, I’m not saying that the right rear is totally stress free and it is all up to driving style to make the car better.
A pushing torque is still going through the radius rods.
And, unless the instant center is located directly on the center of the axle tube, the torque will push up or push down on the chassis and present a little bind on the suspension.
I’m not saying this is much, but we are analyzing every portion of the suspension, so we might as well solve all little problems.
Since we separated the radius rod angle from suspension movement on the left rear couldn’t we do this on the right also. Shouldn’t we use the same type of deal from the left rear and use it on the right rear also.
I think there will be a little more traction there as well.
If we use some of the torque of the rods to control dynamic ride height, shouldn’t take the bind out and create as much traction at the tire.
Be an artist.
Don’t accept the way we do things now as the way it needs to be.
There is always something better.
Be safe and think hard,
P.S. A couple articles back I claimed I would probably run 2 degrees camber in the right rear axle housing.
This seemed about right to me, but when I was specking out some rear ends today I noticed Winters comes with a maximum of 1.5 degrees of camber possible.
This just seems to be the max they offer.